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Show Report

Show Report: Christopher Raeburn A/W 15 Menswear

by Lou Stoppard on 11 January 2015

Lou Stoppard reports on the Christopher Raeburn A/W 15 menswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Christopher Raeburn A/W 15 menswear show.

Christopher Raeburn was feeling daring for A/W 15. In inspiration, that is, not aesthetic. He was thinking about survival and the plight of a man stranded aboard a raft. If you're thinking of the drama and emotion of Tom Hanks crying after poor lost Wilson in Cast Away then think again. This was business as usual for Rabeurn - it was safe, expected but perfect for those men who like to look 'done' but still rugged and, to a degree, normal.

Raeburn's whole shtick is recycling, so it's natural that he's not looking to reinvent the wheel - his cuts are unfussy and classic, and his hues are cheerful, simple primaries. He's got a good formula now. It's all about cosy, bulky outerwear (this season it was inflatable - a novel if unconvincing idea), snug gilets, hardworking knits, a relatively kitsch nature-inspired print (this season it channeled Jaws) and a gimmicky accessory as a handy photo-op; for A/W an oversized shark-shaped duffle bag that should have looked cheerful but sadly hung from the back of the model like a limp carcass - though maybe it was a comment on our savage treatment of the world's oceans and sharks (probably not). All in all there was lots in this collection to keep the committed Raeburn shopper happy and protected for A/W 15 - and that's all the CR man really wants, he's not looking to make a Best Dressed list, more keep cosy and comfy when biking or hiking on his days off and navigating the urban jungle during the week. That said, given all the sharks motifs, you wished the ideas on show had a bit more bite.

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