If walking into the vast Lycée Carnot last night you looked around you at the arcade games, the scattering of base speakers and the basketball hoop and you thought 'Got it, Eighties Americana', you were wrong. In fact, you were out by a hundred years and a few decades for change and then you'd need to to turn south and head towards Mexico. Tonight we were in the company of Riccardo Tisci's gang of Victorian chola girls and let me tell you that admission is well worth the face piercings required. Pearl ones at that too!
The collection was heavier on the Victorian side of things but with a healthy dose of attitude - the aforementioned pearl piercings, the kiss curls that from afar resembled tattoos, the little braids. You did not want to mess with these girls but you definitely wanted their wardrobe. The collection was full of Tisci signatures - the palette was mainly black but with brilliant pops of red and midnight blue throughout, the waist was corseted in, matador-style, the necklines were low, skirts were gathered and flouncy and there were frills galore but executed so perfectly and confidently that you wanted to lean in and touch everything - particularly those velvet and lace dresses and peacock printed furs. The images do not do them justice, I'm afraid. The message however is coming through loud and clear: Tisci is at his best.