In a largely simple and understated collection it was the pops of colour that really stood out this season at Jil Sander. Fluorescent orange on glasses, belts and shoes punctuated what was otherwise clean, classic and muted. That’s not to say the clothes didn’t have flair, it was just quite quiet this season.
Long coats overlapped at the front with just a hint of dressing gown to them and shirts were lifted by ruffles that emerged, far from fussy, from the sleeves of a slick black jacket or the collar of a plain jumper. A long sheepskin coat was covered by a geometric pattern of yellow, black and white with touches of emerald green and was a marvellous display of how richness and simplicity can blend successfully. Despite these moments of brilliance, and how many people were raving about 'those boots' as the rows emptied out, I do wonder if without those touches it might have been just a little bit too safe. Safe can be good, it can be a breath of fresh air after the endless embellished tapestry dresses for nobody to wear ever, but if it’s quiet flair that Rodolfo Paglialunga’s going for at Sander, I wonder if he might benefit from amplifying it just a notch or two.