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Show Report

Show Report: Loewe A/W 15 Womenswear

by Kiki Georgiou on 6 March 2015

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Loewe A/W 15 womenswear show.

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Loewe A/W 15 womenswear show.

I'm sorry but you were saying something very interesting about the seventies reigning supreme for yet another season blah blah... Snooze. Old news. To paraphrase fashion's current muse, Joan Didion, fashion changes in the instant. You sit down on a stone boulder to watch a show and by the time the first roomy leather patchwork blouse walks out, tucked into a pair of even roomier herringbone trousers, fashion, as you know it, is over. Jonathan Anderson put an end to all that by delivering a fantastic show for Loewe this morning at Marcel Breuer's imposing brutalist UNESCO headquarters. It may only have been his second at the Spanish house but be it looks and feels like he's comfortably at home.

Those leather tops and short sporty leather jackets zipped open at the neck were such a breath of fresh air in their volume. The herringbone trousers came with big cargo pockets on the sides and shiny link belts, like what your aunt wore in those eighties pictures she likes to bring out now and then. A pleated iridescent and rather poisonous-looking green dress belted over trousers managed to look both like the best vintage find and the ideal alternative to the aimlessly romantic lace things of late. It was followed by a more innocent camel smock, loosely tiered and frilled, while lurex fine knits and ribbed turtlenecks were layered under everything.

Loewe being a house of leather meant that those pieces were outstanding - see the brilliantly glossy black leather coat or another butter soft and buttery in tone or a little green suede skirt with a geometric black pattern or how about a pair of bright orange leather trousers instead? The tall suede boots featured a contrasting triple stripe at the toe and the petit bucket bags gathered at the top to resemble flowers. And just like that - and by building on his own label show just days before - Anderson managed to not only change the entire conversation but make the eighties look chic. Now, you were saying?

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