Show Report

Show Report: Thakoon A/W 15 Womenswear

by Kiki Georgiou on 16 February 2015

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Thakoon A/W 15 womenswear show.

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Thakoon A/W 15 womenswear show.

Today Thakoon accomplished something pretty tricky. He showed a collection that seemed bohemian to its core and yet felt utterly modern and now. That takes a pretty good understanding of how the women you want to dress actually dress themselves and a strong conviction to stick to your playbook and avoid peeking at what the other cool kids are doing. Thakoon has always designed the kind of dresses and separates that don’t scream for attention but rather, get that much sweeter long quizzical look followed by, ‘where did you get this?’ This collection was full of where-did-you-get-these. It’s interesting that Thakoon is the second designer this week to reference dandies backstage – Altuzarra was the other, his of the 18th century, Thakoon’s the 19th and in particular Oscar Wilde. Dries van Noten has played with these references too recently, particularly for his menswear. Perhaps those snazzy gentlemen of yore are an interesting proposition for young designers looking for ways to reinstall the joy of dressing and sartorial indulgences into their collections.

Thakoon’s silhouette remained long and slim and this was a textural collection that begged to be felt. Patchwork teddy bear and shearling coats were roomy over striped boucle knits with crochet inserts and platform mules. Pullovers were long and twisted on the body to form knots so a navy ribbed one looked as if it had an extra piece wrapped around the waist. An oversized white poplin shirt was again knotted at the front over wool trousers and the proportions of a black and white long tunic worn long over a floral chiffon skirt was very enticing. Knits aside, it was the chiffon floral dresses and tapestry velvet ones that stood out, the latter shiny and full of texture. One was layered over a white shirt with cut-out shoulders and a big shearling scarf and another over a white turtleneck and knee-high boots. A burgundy macramé long-sleeve dress was also fantastic as were the finale dresses with their low necklines and sequin and tinsel pullovers. You wanted it all.


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