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Show Report

Show Report: Thomas Tait A/W 15 Womenswear

by Bertie Brandes on 24 February 2015

Bertie Brandes reports on the Thomas Tait A/W 15 womenswear show.

Bertie Brandes reports on the Thomas Tait A/W 15 womenswear show.

Are you feeling a bit shy this season Thomas? Refusing to light the room enough to even really see the clothes let alone photograph them, Tait also skipped the obligatory walk-through, instead sending his models weaving through shadows and disappearing round dark corners. Blocks of light illuminated his collection, sort of, but the rest of it was guesswork. Perhaps Tait is another of an increasing number of designers frustrated with how their shows are misrepresented on social media, though the lighting practically meant everyone had to go online to see the clothes properly after the show anyway.

Frustration aside, this collection was a strong one. Big metal buttons with cut out 'T's were a wonderfully snippy lesson in how to do understated branding properly and sat sideways waist-height on the opening look. Perhaps these were a nod to questions of commercialisation - remember Tait won the LVMH prize in June last year - but if that pressure is there it seems only to have brought out the best in him as a designer. Smooth razor-sharp edged leather coats and high, liquid PVC gloves harked back to early Tait in all his glorious precision. Heels were stuck through bubbles of clear plastic and draped scarves fell long, soft and elegant. There was less manipulation with shape and this season was certainly one of his most wearable yet, which could be what's put him on the defensive but whatever it was Tait wanted to keep in the dark he couldn't distract from the brilliance of this collection.

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