Show Report: Anthony Vaccarello A/W 16 Womenswear

The first major show of Paris Fashion Week was Anthony Vaccarello. Having just witnessed the ongoing transformation of Milan Fashion Week, this was more business as per usual. Vaccarello knows who is client is: models and wannabe models or jet set party girls who like their skirts thigh high - and their likes on social media even higher. The skirts this season weren't just short. Latticed strapping detail added to the visual narrowness of hips, whilst the upper body was a tad more voluminous. A deep V-neck and liquid legging ensemble was case in point. Even with some of the longest legs in the world, some looks looked a little top heavy. The lacing – both at the waist and on cut out shoe boots – felt slightly warrior or wrestler like. It was too hard for today’s taste palette – but I could see a sporty edge. On an historical tip, it reminded one of a 21st century take on twenties Symington corsets – when hips were not the thing. This construction was also applied to long line tuxedo jackets, which looked clever. Later on in the collection, women showed up in actual corsets, worn under softly tailored suits. The coolest piece in the collection happened when Vaccarello skewed things to one side, creating an asymmetric long sleeved dress with slide split and side seam latticing. The leather hoodies also added a much-needed laid-back take on proceedings.

There were no show notes, just words from the brand such as sexy, short and lean. Grey, yellow khaki and black colour combo versions, of similar total looks, spoke of how this designer is in expansion mode – rather than one of exploration. Regardless of being part of any kind of collective relevance, it seems this label is loved by women who will always love it. This rings true with the current style of a certain major house, which Vaccarello is rumoured to be heading up soon (Spoiler: Saint Laurent). Hence, the glove (minuscule skirt) may just fit. An attempt at something more hand-touched and sentimental arrived in the form of a floral embroidered jumper. The embroidery also appeared on the back of some skirts. It seemed popular – but reminded one of the time Christopher Kane did a similar thing, juxtaposing floral embroidery with tough girl black leather. Regardless, it was encouraging to see Vaccarello adding some emotional warmth to his clothes. What was of note was the addition of some serious tactility to the line, in the shape of cream shearling jackets. If Vaccarello is heading to Saint Laurent, outerwear will be an essential category for him to nail. And if he's not, then this development was an important step for his own label too.