Show Report: Edward Crutchley A/W 16 Menswear

Forget London unity, it was Northern pride that was the standout loyalist force at this season’s A/W 16 UK shows. Just moments after Christopher Shannon showed us a homage to Liverpool, Ed Crutchley - a talent hyped by London menswear’s boy-done-good Kim Jones, now Men’s Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton - explored the land and get-ups found in his native Yorkshire. The practical, unassuming fleeces worn by walkers were reimagined in sumptuous velour. While, in a surprisingly sweet addition, the ferret, hardly fashion’s go-to animal, was embroidered across louche silk dressing gowns - what an odd, yet effective pairing. Elsewhere, a camo print was made up of oak leafs. A country retreat at London fashion week!

Crutchley’s designs are pleasing, but it’s his approach to sourcing and manufacturing that’s the most engaging part of his process. He’s keen to champion and spotlight British craft - so he teamed up with Toye & Co, a family-run business set up in 1685 that specialises in gold and silver laces and embroidery (they made the medals presented to service personnel at the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee), produced a co-branded hat with his Lock & Co, the UK’s oldest hatters, commissioned suiting from weavers in Yorkshire and had his knits hand spun in Kent. Crutchley’s at the very start of his career now. His brand is small. He showed off-schedule. One hopes he’ll get to a stage where his brand is thriving enough to genuinely support these makers and suppliers. Fashion needs those who include, respect and look back - in that sense Crutchley’s work is vital.