Today’s Jason Wu show opened with a skirt suit. No big shocker there, right? Except that the skirt of this particular checked suit was very short, as in mini short and paired with very high velvet stilettos. It had a youthful, carefree, slightly daring way about it – not something readily associated with Wu’s label. As the opening look it seemed to signal a change of sorts, which sadly didn’t fully materialise as the show progressed. Yes, the new skirt length was there again in a windowpane plaid with an attached fur collar and more intriguingly in a short-sleeved navy floral jacquard paired with those high heels in matching blue velvet - when paired with Ruth Bell's platinum almost-shaved hair they felt almost wrong, exciting territory for Wu to delve into. But he didn’t and the collection as shown today lacked cohesion. On the rail, in the stores, every piece will look great and Wu’s customers will find plenty to add to their wardrobes. And perhaps that was the designer’s primary concern; his customer’s wardrobe and what to add to it. If so, he ticked plenty of boxes.
Tailored jackets came open at the back and tied together with long straps. That design looked particularly appealing on a navy ribbed knit dress and it worked when one of said jackets came paired with a feather embroidered grey skirt. In fact, Wu went to town with those feathers and a big wool coat covered in them looked great but full looks – like a feather embroidered trouser suit - felt a little heavy and allergy-inducing. On the other hand, a cropped black velvet puffa top with a matching velvet skirt felt light, cool and unexpected and made you want to see it again. Black lace looked particularly great when fused with ribbed knits and the shoes were a hit – both the shorter block heel pumps and the sky-high stilettos. Wu might want to challenge his customers a bit more – they can take it.