Show Report: Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 16 Womenswear

The striped vinyl flooring was a guaranteed Instagram share for Salvatore Ferragamo - before the show even got started. It was also a direct way of communicating the key colours within the collection. Deep rich magenta, black, lilac, red, yellow, and toffee, were just some of the shades. Creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, said he was channeling a boldness, inspired by the freedom of the twenties and thirties Italian art movements. The referencing felt a little divergent. Were we talking futurism or surrealism? No artist names were mentioned but we were also encouraged to think about assemblage. It was seemingly all a way to chime in with the spirit of the founder of the house, and his own original fearless outlook. As well as stripes, there were a lot of zig-zags, which saw the jumpy graphic extend beyond the frame, to inspire pointed scalloped edging. Are we wandering into the semiotic zone of Missoni here? Sure, no one can own a zig-zag - but Missoni kinda does.

There were lots of desirable pieces, packed with character, and a noticeable touch of irreverence. Fur pom-pom fastenings on double breasted jackets and multi coloured fur coats were an almost ironic take on luxury. Some of it was so unapologetic that the influence of certain irreverent London designers could really be felt. It's as if they have given Milan the courage to re-embrace its playfully glamorous side. Zips created frock coat shapes, whilst pleated elbow sleeves evoked a period style ruff. Other highlights included a top with variegated lengths of multi coloured strapping, which created an alternative take on the pelmet. Hispanic ruffles in parchment cream, capes, checkerboard stains, and some incredible green prints were all rendered with an incredibly discerning hand - but were courageous all the same. Giornetti was talking about evoking 'an aristocratic woman with a maverick streak.' He was also talking about stirring emotions - and the multi nuanced layers of a modern woman. Like the 1930's Italian Surrealists, who made the mystery of a woman their life's work, maybe this is what Giornetti was getting at. I just hope that the Ferragamo customer is brave enough to get in touch with her inner wonder and invest.