The sunshine pouring through the skylight and windows at Pier 59, Suno’s venue today, went a long way to thaw the faces of the guests flocking in from the bone-chilling temperatures outside that New York is treating us to. The collection that Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis presented went even further and warmed us up to our bones.
Cascading ruffles, blown-up plaids, big bows and a side of sparking Lurex were the order of the day and if that sounds too busy trust Beatty’s know-how on keeping layered loose silhouettes light and lean, like a tan plaid frilly shirt with a bow tied at the collar over a matching dress. Navy and forest green mink fur scarves were knotted and tucked inside jackets and appeared again as ties on coats and a big navy fuzzy wool coat with an attached scarf pulled high up the model’s face (think of it as a back-to-front hood) was a particularly winning touch for a winter’s day like today. The use of Lurex worked great on a wine red ribbed knit dress and again as the gold pinstripe on roomy wool trousers but the designers’ play with whimsical fabrics really paid off in the later part of the show - typically known as evening although a Suno dress tends to be an all-day affair. Take the navy paisley jacquard on a simple button-down dress, for example, or the silver foil on blue Damask lace pattern that elevated a simple maxi dress, the gold on black embroidery on a ruffled neck dress and the metallic pleated silk skirt of the finale dress. They had all the feel of a vintage treasure but were clearly made for today’s girl. As long as today, of all days, she wraps up warm.