Céline Dion going nuts during the finale and giving a standing ovation – actually it was more like a standing, jumping and cheering ovation – to Giambattista Valli. That was definitely the highlight of the latest collection by the Italian couturier. Which doesn’t mean that the collection was any less of a highlight: it was all pure Valli, but when isn’t that the case? Giambattista Valli has the rare and elusive gift of being always true to himself and knowing perfectly well who his client is and catering to her and to her alone.
This time he chose simplicity - or at least as much of it as couture will allow - eschewing the crystal embroideries and super shiny dresses of collections past, opting instead for subtle flower embroideries, often superimposed in different layers of organza or tulle. And also taking a cue from Madame Grès to create an ensemble of Greek-inspired gowns, at times taking the shape of disco dresses, at times that of red carpet numbers, in shades of lemon, peach, crimson, burgundy and powder pink. The vertical drapings and peplums have seldom looked so appealing, and so luxurious. It was just a pity that the designer chose to pair most of his looks with towering platform satin stilettos that made the models look frailer than Bambi, and like they were about to collapse at each step. In 2017, are vertiginous heels really a measure of one’s glamour and femininity, even when it comes to the beyond glamorous and feminine hordes of Valli addicts?