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Show Report

Show Report: Damir Doma A/W 17 Menswear

by Lucy Norris on 16 January 2017

Lucy Norris reports on the Damir Doma A/W 17 show.

Lucy Norris reports on the Damir Doma A/W 17 show.

This is the second season that Damir Doma has shown both his womenswear and menswear together in one sitting – and it’s all going rather well. Chatting with the designer backstage after the show, he explained, 'It really has changed everything. It’s changed how I see my man and my woman. Before I had inspirations going between to the two collections, and now I can just show how it all links together. It makes the communication about the brand so much stronger.'

The show opened with paper bag waists in shades of South American tobacco, striped tweeds and Sienna brown knits. The girls wore magenta velvet boots - whilst the brown stripes extended onto men's footwear. The accessories saw resin stones worn around the neck, whilst extended sleeves on knitted jumpers were pulled through the cuffs of tailored jackets.

The collection had a Stevie Nicks vibe, and people such as PJ Harvey were on the moodboard backstage - although the designer was quick to point out that his moodboard is never about direct references. On the runway, men wore cropped trousers, and wide boxy jackets - as well as side fastened orange shirts, which resembled a fusion of Asian and Moroccan styles. Classic wardrobe pieces saw a drawstring bomber jacket, side fastened and ruched on the arm and shoulder. Meanwhile, papery trousers in an oversized wide fit were worn with long coats.

This Croatian-born, Milan-based designer really is going from strength to strength. Folkloric, pagan, and grungy - boiled, holey knits and global eclecticism felt ancient yet homely. Describing what he feels his clothes can offer, Doma explained, 'We need some sense of emotion. We need things touched by a human hand. With it being such a cold and scary world today, I think fashion and art should be something that warms the heart and keeps our spirit up.'

The designer also cited architecture and Wolfgang Tillmans' photography as inspiration. Admiring the artist’s 'honest, human, simple touch', Doma feels that Tillmans' work really 'speaks the truth'.

Speaking more about truth, he said: 'From my heart, I am a minimalist, but minimalism has become too cold. I want to continue to work with folkloric references, and the idea of young people as travelers and collectors, so to 'warm up' my work.'

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