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Show Report

Show Report: Emilio Pucci A/W 17 Womenswear

by Lou Stoppard on 23 February 2017

Lou Stoppard reports on the Pucci A/W 17 womenswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Pucci A/W 17 womenswear show.

Pucci, but with a twist. Massimo Giorgetti, Pucci’s semi-new creative director (he was appointed in Spring 2015) seemed determined to mess around with the house codes for A/W 17. You want print? I’ll give you print. You want colour? I’ll give you colour. It was aggressively odd. Deliciously warped.

The collection was met with bemusement. Those hats? That comedy fringing? On the front row, many commented that the head-to-toe colour and patterns recalled the Balenciaga/Vetements look (Side note: much on display at the moment recalls the Balenciaga/Vetements look). Here that was inevitable - Lotta Volkova, the stylist who works her magic alongside Demna Gvasalia, had been employed by the Pucci team. She brought her signature skills for toying with ugliness and irony, and turning something vaguely modest into something aggressively sexual to this runway. Those tacky crystal rings, the inclusion of those showy suitcases, those long long lines all smacked of her influence. On the soundtrack was voice-over artist Ken Nordine’s Colours album, on which he theatrically discusses the attributes of a variety of hues. As the opening lime looks arrived, his musings on green boomed out. 'As an intellectual vibration smack dab in the middle of spectrum, green can be a problem. That’s because there’s so many different greens inside of green and each one has a different IQ. There’s the green that should never have happened: The 'stupid green'. The green that is 'green with envy'. Then there’s the 'so-so green', the 'who-cares-anyway?' green.' Which green was this? I’d say the 'who-cares-anyway' green. Volkova loves to split opinion. Giorgetti’s clearly happy to as well. But isn’t that carefree confidence a Pucci signature? This brand has never been for everyone.

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