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Show Report

Show Report: A_PLAN_APPLICATION A/W 18 Womenswear

published on 4 March 2018

Georgina Evans reports on Anna Blessmann's A_PLAN_APPLICATION A/W 18 womenswear show.

Georgina Evans reports on Anna Blessmann's A_PLAN_APPLICATION A/W 18 womenswear show.

A_Plan_Application is the new kid on the block. Spotted by Virgil Abloh and rocketed into the forefront, A_Plan is a brand you ought to know about. Created by Anna Blessmann, the brand is refreshingly unique in its form and its concept. Much like Abloh, Blessman didn’t follow a typical trajectory into fashion. She’s a talented artist and thus her garments are focused on form, body, and how the clothes move and fit with the wearer.

Blessmann has been dressing from army surplus and customising her own hoodies and garb for years, as a creative she wanted something that represented her and her passions - a stylish buildable wardrobe that doesn't overtly peacock a 'passion for fashion.’ Whereas it’s commonplace for artists to gravitate toward Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe and Dries van Noten, A_Plan_Application offers pieces for those that don’t want to be defined by who or what they wear. They’re a neutral base of brilliance. No labels, no frills.

These are buildable items; hoodies (these have a slight stiffness to them, Blessmann added this so that when worn, the hoods stand up in a sculptural shape), fisherman knit jumpers, tapered tracksuit trouser, polos and sweatshirts. Some are cut with wide hips in mind, some are cropped, some are high-waisted, all are created to consider different bodies. You could take one and have its cut, fabric, and neutral colour elevate your wardrobe or you could buy three interchangeable pieces and gain three entirely new looks. Having seen Blessman demo at least three pieces on her already full look, every item change creating another brilliant and surprisingly different outfit, I find the latter incredibly hard to resist.

There’s an almost Bauhaus approach to this capsule collection; these are practical items made to be kept and worn on repeat, they’re buildable, dependable, flattering. Both the fabric choice and the colours are designed for durability and compatibility; cotton, denim and merino wool are offered in bright sky blue, navy and a stark white. The former a reference to cheap plastic carrier bags and the latter a nod to uniformity. The utilitarian aspect comes through in both colours and cut, particularly with the boots - which are designed to challenge the need for tights- the jumpsuit and the apron-skirt.

Each season, Blessmann adds a silken scarf amongst her uniform. It’s the only silk item, it’s the only patterned item, and it’s designed by her partner graphic designer Peter Saville. A personal flair amongst the systematic silhouettes. This capsule is individual but methodical, it’s fashionable but not fashion-obvious, it's slick, exquisitely designed, basic but beautiful. I'm converted! Scrapping my wardrobe and starting again with A_Plan_Application.

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