Taking place in the same Armani compound as the Giorgio Armani show the day before, the Emporio Armani A/W 18 show was far more focused. Here, it was all about swagger stepping into a club; the confidence of being able to have whatever you want. An air of privilege.
There’s such an obsession with branding amongst younger consumers, I suppose Armani couldn’t ignore it. Logos were abundant, with the EA sign featuring on scarves, belts, jumpers and beanies. Other 'trend' pieces included cowboy boots. These were offered at varying points - ankle, mid and fully over-the-knee. Accessories were simple and sellable. A series of mini purse bags that hung around models' necks offered a new alternative to the bumbag.
Models emerged from behind a neon green EA logo and throughout the collection, sporty green was used to evoke a sense of energy and punchiness. The shade sometimes got lost in the clothes, especially when paired with black – then it looked dull rather than dynamic. Stand alone looks, like a vamped up day-jumpsuit, worked better.
Emporio is a cheaper line than Giorgio Armani; sometimes this collection really looked it. One sky blue dress and jacket looked synthetic and felt high street. A few pale green, digitally printed blazer and short skirt suits, styled with little slanted berets, came across more air hostess than Blair Waldorf. The black was shiny and well-cut coats were undermined because of it. A series of mohair jumpers paired with long floaty skirts and styled with flats perfectly captured that awkward pre-pubescent style - I’m not sure that was the point.
Where the collection delivered best was when it focused less on being young and more on offering classic Armani signatures. The furry coats with asymmetric zips and a geometric print suit were particularly strong. There were some great simple miniskirts too. A fitted striped coat in green and grey felt like Kenzo in the seventies. I wanted it. The final looks saw the introduction of more and more glittery embellishment, the last dress styled with a sweeping fur scarf. There was much spectacle, but I wasn’t convinced I wanted to join the party.
