For A/W 18, set to a soundtrack of classic Italian bangers, Massimo Giorgetti brought out a feisty and joyful ode to the modern Milanese spirit. The collection was built around the 1800s romantic hero Alessandro Manzoni, a poet and novelist. In tribute to the Milanese icon, the show took place in Piazza San Fedele. Manzoni’s statue sits in the main square and he used to worship at the church nearby. A perfect location to pay tribute, translating the artist’s legacy to present day.
Milano! Milano! Milano! Read slogans on the back of jackets, on the side of socks and across shoes. There was no mistaking the passion and fervour. Peachy pink patent suits were sassy and empowered. Ankle-grazing pleated skirts worn with chunky, workmen style boots struck a harmonious chord between streetwear and the more overtly feminine. Snakeskin-print dresses, shirts and trousers, were a major hit. Subtler flashes of animal print were there too, with snakeskin strips running down the side of high-waisted, straight-legged jeans.
Sportswear was given a revamp via high waisted drawstring tracksuit bottoms in Ferrari red and shades of blue, reminiscent of Italian football shirts. Trainers came chunky and branded. Football scarves paid homage to Milan’s most famous bars, while a series of Alpine knits nodded to the snow-covered mountains nearby. For the true fanatics, there were also t-shirts with Alessandro Manzoni’s face on them, which will probably become a cult hit. PVC was made ample use of, injecting shiny plastic magic into oversized hoodies, long-sleeved tunic-esque tops and over-the-elbow gloves.
A final walk saw each model in a printed silk shirt and matching skirt. The soft, oversized silhouettes of the clothes paired with the chunky boots and neon socks perfectly embodied the heart of Massimo’s collection. Strong and feminine, statement in a kind of nonchalant way: you felt fully immersed in the Milanese world.
After last season, the spotlight has swivelled firmly back to Milan and this MSGM show was another example of why. There’s a new energy and swagger to this newer generation of Italian designers, and it’s potent.