While everyone else is showcasing their winter staples, Mulberry is adding a bit of pep to the calendar with their S/S 18 spring florals. Set in the back of Spencer House, the show was seated in the round, with roses hanging on the wall in the entryway and romantic movies of teacups and ornamental sweet-things playing on loop. A large hexagonal mirror in the centre forced the fash pack, Vogue editors, celebrities and the like, to all look at themselves until seats were found. There’s something quite brilliant about making the front row awkwardly look at their reflection, at a rose-tinted mirror no less.
Florals, pinks and a rotating mirror - a very social media friendly setting indeed. In fact, Mulberry have really welcomed the digitisation of fashion, using their social media platforms to reach out to an audience that perhaps previously would be deemed untappable. This recognising of the times, this nod to a more media-engaged individual, was really felt in the latest offering from the brand. The show was surprisingly fresh and modern with silken blousons, ruffled hem satin dresses and waist-exposed cut-outs on frilled knits. The palette too was particularly youthful: ochre met millennial pink, evergreen met cobalt blue, canary yellow was paired with an orange lip - it felt very spring, very slick. Perhaps that can be attributed in part to Lotta Vollkova's influential styling eye.
The accessories were rather enchanting, earrings that dangled as deconstructed faces were on both lobe and bag, and large bejewelled toucan earrings were a jovial addition - these are a great entry point for the younger consumer, newly enticed by the brand's social buzz, or for the more traditional Mulberry customer too, designed to be purchased, treasured and handed-down. Likewise, the Lynton Mini Bucket bag bedecked with sparkles and the Amberley bag with a bright stripe or crimped edge will be a popular draw.
Johnny Coca had been looking 'Beyond Heritage' for this season, celebrating all archetypal aspects of Englishness - garden parties, afternoon tea, the races. This was seen especially in the perfect-for-Ascot hats. A collaboration with milliner Noel Stewart, these appeared almost as if they were giant flattened roses. The short-suit that came in a cream hue was a sweet twist on the 'ladies who lunch' look and the final two looks, both floating ditsy print shirt dresses, felt as if a nod to Lady Diana - Spencer House is her family's ancestral home after-all.
As the finale walked, the mirror twisted to reveal singer Goldfrapp, who sang the models out to the lyrics ‘I can’t wait anymore.’ Indeed, with Mulberry’s new see-now-buy-now format you won’t have to. And with a collection as inviting as this one, you certainly won’t want to.
