Last season J. JS Call-me-Jackie Lee took a flight back to London, looked out of the window, saw the pretty fluffy clouds below and decided to create a collection as cushioned and light as those clouds. This time around, her inspiration was more grounded; Berlin, visited on a summer's holiday, and in particular its wall, or at least the image of it. This was a really strong collection, well edited and executed perfectly - a How To for all other young designers showing. Presented in Somerset's House Portico Rooms, we got the chance to lean forward for a closer look at the embossed collars, the opening slashes at backs of dresses and the emerging pattern of a brick wall.
She has us at hello, really! The opening long tank dress, with that brick wall embossed pattern and peek-a-boo back was fantastic. A white slim suit, small contrasting navy cuff to the shirt, was as sharp as they come, and a lime green, navy and white long slender skirt, teamed with a buttoned-up little shirt, felt romantic and modern at the same time. If that portion of the show was city cool the rest was pretty and feminine. Lee referenced the New Look in her notes but she really played with the idea of a full skirt for now. So, a slate grey pleated skirt was paired with a sporty hooded zip-up and another had a matching wide square top but worn over a sleeveless white shirt, its small collar just showing through.
The ease and apparent simplicity of some looks, the warm powder colour of a little shirt and trousers or the measured girly joy of another pleated skirt and done up shirt brought to mind Margaret Howell and that's one of the highest compliments I can pay a young designer. I hope J. JS Lee gets on another plane soon!
