We can go ahead now and claim Roland Mouret as 'our own', no? Sure, Mouret is French but this morning at the Hotel Westin, it certainly felt like we were there to see a Brit showing in Paris. Our boy did us proud! Think Roland Mouret and you think the Galaxy dress or, in fact, any of his best-selling - for some women life-enhancing and for some designers brand-making - dresses that fit as a glove in 'all the right places', as we like to think. An accomplishment that others strive to achieve, of course, but where does that take you as a designer when those around you are constantly searching for 'the new'? Well, with Galaxy and friends available to buy at any given time from his Carlos Place store and studio, Mouret has joined the search and this season found himself back in the Eighties.
The big shoulders on the fire red jacket that opened the show over a matching high-waist skirt, slit open at the front, could only have come from then but gimmicky they were not. In fact, clever round slices to the hem at the side of the skirts allowed for movement so they never felt constricting. Shoulders were even bigger and squarer on another red jacket teamed with a green skirt but, interestingly for a Mouret show, the focus was mainly on trousers. They were mannish, slightly tapered and loose, and they looked great in green with the contrasting white interior of the pockets showing, and bright white with an attachable peplum/pockets. A tailored shimmery blue dress had lost part of its sleeves leaving just the collar and shirt placket and this being the Eighties there was leather. He treated it as any other fabric in his hands and draped it into body-hugging caramel and green dresses. The front of a pair of burgundy trousers was leather, the back black.
The dresses at the end were a treat for his loyal customers. Signature Mouret, in black and white, one had a scarf detail folded around the neck and through to the waist and a strapless one sharp angles on the bust. Azealia Banks may have been singing "A bad bitch"(Esta Noche) but we wouldn't dare call these ladies that! A confident collection and we can't wait to see where he'll go next.