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Show Report

Show Report: Ann Demeulemeester S/S 14 Womenswear

by Anders Christian Madsen on 26 September 2013

Anders Christian Madsen reports on the Ann Demeulemeester S/S 14 womenswear show.

Anders Christian Madsen reports on the Ann Demeulemeester S/S 14 womenswear show.

With her poetic universe and dreamy disposition, Ann Demeulemeester seems to have a divine connection to nature, which could only put her a step ahead in a season infatuated with the natural elements. For the designer, the interpretation of florals and floatiness didn’t lie in applying them to the body, but rather in her woman becoming one with them. 'It comes from the inside and shows on the outside. It’s not someone who dresses up, but someone who’s actually like this,' she said backstage. It was in the flocking of flower motifs on translucent tulle, which clung to the skin ('almost like a tatouage') that Demeulemeester so cleverly created her human nature. When used in leggings, it expressed itself in what she referred to as a certain effortless eccentricity, which also happened to pave the way for a sexier, more glamorous and powerful take on her woman.

A regal red gown saw a cocktail dress combined with a floor-length skirt, sliced up at the front creating a rather seductive view to the legs. A similar kind of sexiness was represented in scanty black leather miniskirts, or in a long sheer dress with panels of flower flocking, swaying side to side revealing different parts of the model’s body as she walked. A collaboration with Demeulemeester’s graphic designer son Victor Robyn, the florals had an opulence about them, which – as things so often go in Demeulemeester’s world – brought with it an almost church-like spirit, which cast a ceremonious lustre on the collection. Backed up by Fad Gadget’s Back To Nature on the sound system, it made for the kind of poetically electric show that few designers master as well the D-Meister.

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