In these sombre times of minimalism and artsy pretention, Jonathan Saunders is a godsend. This season, it’s been ten years since he did his first collection from a bedroom in Brixton, and nothing could have celebrated his decennial better than the show he put on at Tate Britain on Sunday evening. Working with the idea of the modern free spirit, Saunders created a tribute to the 'eccentric, brave, cool' girls who’ve inspired him throughout his career.
Slouchy, silky shorts and trousers and little bomber jackets with florals looked sporty with a seventies feeling, which had its hippie flower child elements to it but without the annoying bohemian connotations. Rather, it was one of the most sumptuously elegant collections we’ve seen from the designer, and one that cemented the fact that in Saunders’ layering of materials and elements and his ability to master colours, shapes and fabrics to create almost endless depth in a daytime look, he is matched only by Dries Van Noten. 'I almost love that feeling of more is more this season,' he said backstage, echoing that very sentiment. It was one of those collections you could look at for hours and still find new life in. And as for the flowers? 'Poppies. Hallucinogenic poppies,' Saunders said. 'I’ll leave it at that.'