Part woodland nymph, part Studio 54 disco dolly, Proenza Schouler’s brilliantly ethereal-meets-Sci-Fi vision for Spring/Summer 2014 proved the highlight of NYFW thus far. To the repetitive electro beat of an ominous Blade Runner-like soundtrack, models took to the geometric catwalk in chicly minimal, precise and effortless ensembles featuring cropped wide-leg pants and long-sleeve ankle-length dresses and breezy pleated skirts in a clean palette of cream, beige, black and metallic hues. An ultra-modern take on seventies disco style, silhouettes in supple silk crepe and suede were lean and elongated emphasising a lithe feminine physique, toughened up with bold metal hardware (including statement-making breast plates complete with leather straps) and sculptural sky-high platform heels.
A reprieve from the ubiquitous 90s grunge-fest that has taken over NYFW this season, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez once again proved their mettle as experimental yet commercially-viable designers with an expertly crafted and thoroughly modern collection of dressed-up day and eveningwear that riffed on, rather than exploited, its key influences. Never overtly referential, the resulting streamlined seventies-inspired ensembles were at once futuristic and earthy, heralding a return to feminine glamour for spring.