With all the flamboyant gentlemen in the room, a designer can never go wrong with an Old Hollywood reference or two on a catwalk. But for Roberto Cavalli, the silver screen that inspired his Spring/Summer 2014 collection means so much more than just a reference. Hollywood royalty is at the core of his clientele (the few of them who are still with us, anyway) and like Old Hollywood, the unapologetic, magical glamour his house stands for is sadly a dying phenomenon. In that way, Cavalli’s collection of sparkly silver looks in intricate textures and lush materials – shown on the backdrop of film set lights and to a cinematic overture – seemed like a sort of vigil for a disappearing world. If it sounds sad it wasn’t. It was really quite fabulous.
But there were dark elements to the show, which brought about a sense of melancholy, for instance when the delightful movie score soundtrack changed to Marilyn Manson’s brilliant but very haunting rendition of I Put A Spell On You, and the glitzy silver looks faded into witchy black dresses, which had more than a little femme fatale in them. As the sound of rolling film reels came on and an epic movie score hit the speakers once again as the designer took his Oscar winner bow, a voice in the rows quietly remarked, 'Be kind, rewind.' Perhaps that would be Cavalli’s biggest wish for the world.
