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Show Report

Show Report: Carven S/S 15 Menswear

by Lou Stoppard on 26 June 2014

Lou Stoppard reports on the Carven S/S 15 menswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Carven S/S 15 menswear show.

The fanciable Carven schoolboy has got even more insolent for S/S 15. At the last show his attitude had started to come out. He'd abandoned those sweet florals and pastels of his youth in favour of dark tailoring and black velvet. Today, he was feeling just as moody, though slightly more laddish than before. He was bunking off school in a pair of tracksuit bottoms with his blazer, or hanging round town with his mod gang in a bomber covered in doodles. 

Guillaume Henry had been watching Ken Loach films, and so was determined to give his guy an anti-fashion feel by making him look like he was in an outfit comprised of all different kinds of garments, sourced and stolen from wherever possible. Perhaps that's why the whole collection had a sportier feel than usual that extended beyond just the way it was styled - smart trousers with a sweater, crisp socks with sliders, tailored shorts with a knitted V-neck. Henry had furnished his suit trousers with a white stripe up each leg, which gave the illusion of sweatpants, while his shirts almost resembled football jerseys with those wide green stripes. He'd kept a healthy amount of taloring in there too, so as not to put off the more conventional Carven man. Indeed, this collection was a lesson in covering all commercial bases and ensuring your stockists continue to reorder, while dreaming up a nice narrative along the way.

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