Show Report: Chalayan S/S 15 Womenswear

At Hussein Chalayan, a taste of the Alhambra. In a collection entitled Moor's Gaze, he explored the visual culture of southern Spain and North Africa in plane tree prints and trellis like graphics that seemed inspired by that opulent palace.

But there were signature pieces in there too - folding integral jackets that shrugged off into full skirted dresses, planate and split side tailoring, buttoned low and fitted on the mannish side.

It built to a series of column dress that gestured the Moor himself, picked out in full splendour on the front, looking back at the spectators. Chalayan's clothes are so persuasively and inventively complex that they invite scrutiny - here we had a taste of our own medicine as those eyes met ours.