Jonathan Saunders knows his place. He's aware that his menswear is about product rather than theatrics and poetry, and he also know what his shopper wants - a good bomber, a jazzy knit, some tailoring with 'a twist' and plenty of fun prints and hues. Saunders' focus on producing pieces that smartly bridge the gap between sportswear and tailoring may sound typical of London, but he's emerged as at the most reliable hit-maker by staying consistent and non-confrontational with his shapes. You know you'll be impressed each season, regardless of the given inspiration.
For S/S 15 Saunders had love for the eighties. Whiffs of retro Italian design came through in the metallic neutrals and Armani greys, while a splash of interest appeared in the paint splattering, a less geometric, graphic print than we're used to at Saunders but one that will undoubtedly sell well. What makes a Saunders show worth seeing each season is the sense of progression, the pleasing feeling of seeing a designer grow into a mightier and mightier brand while finessing his signatures. The male journalists and buyers in the room may not be shocked or surprised but what they're seeing, but we're always mentally shopping for themselves. Lust - isn't that what's fashion's about?