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Show Report

Show Report: Marc Jacobs S/S 15 Womenswear

by Kiki Georgiou on 12 September 2014

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Marc Jacobs S/S 15 womenswear show.

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Marc Jacobs S/S 15 womenswear show.

I started watching the Marc Jacobs show on my phone in the back of a cab not three minutes away from the Park Avenue Armory where the show was physically taking place. New York traffic and a strictly punctual designer would do that to you. I then proceeded to watch the rest of it while walking down Park Avenue in the midst of a throng of New Yorkers going home after a day’s work, surrounded by the city and yet cut-off from it, lost in translating Marc’s world. No headphones for me, just the hustle and bustle of Manhattan and on this day, of all days, it was glorious.

Pretty apt too that I had Marisha Pessl’s 'pepto-dismal pink' phrase stuck in my head after reading Special Topics In Calamity Physics earlier in the day. Nothing dismal about Marc’s house, mind you. Just the kind of pretty perfect suburbia his army of soldiers were protecting. Or were they surrounding it?

Uniforms and fatigues but as you’ve never seen them before (but very likely will see again in myriad variations in the ensuing months) – very much the idea Ralph Lauren proposed earlier in the morning too, albeit with a different vocabulary. Ralph’s home is a palace fit for a Maharajah. Marc’s is Suburbia Barbie. The palette was sobering but brilliant – khaki and army green and stone grey and navy blue and played up the exaggerated girlishness of the cinched-in waists, flouncy skirts and sixties lines - he even stuck a daisy on a military t-shirt dress! The buttons and pockets kept getting bigger and the fabrics shinier and the print and sequin dresses he showed towards the end, were as light and soft and romantic as Marc can get. I caught a glimpse of Hanne Gaby in a black vest and tiered skirt clutching her army jacket to her waist while I was nearing the MOMA and nothing I’ve seen all week has made more sense as a New York girl. Strong and vulnerable, tough and romantic, exposed to the city and utterly in control of it.

I missed the show but two ladies in the street told me they liked my outfit and what’s better than that? New York slapped me in the face today and Marc slapped this whole fashion month awake.

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