At Roland Mouret for Spring/Summer 2015, a lighter feel. The designer said he had been inspired by the launch of his store in New York later this year, and it was evident in a collection that foregrounded sportiness over and above his usual European sensuality.
The silhouette was new – A-line for the most part, in girlish skater skirts and fit-and-flare dress made from a zoomed aertex-esque mesh that was paneled with colours. Coral, pistachio, neon pink and primrose yellow, with the odd hibiscus print thrown in for good measure, quilted on capes and inlaid with mesh elsewhere.
That didn’t mean that Mouret’s usual (and famed) underpinnings were absent. Rather, they felt less present, worked into the origami folds and paneling, nipping in as ever and structuring dresses. There was even a pair of shorts in the mix. It’s rare that a store opening can be said to be inspirational, but New York seems to have had a very positive effect on M. Mouret.