The Apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. When Donatella was looking to recruit a designer for Versus, earlier this year, she was looking for someone who was as dedicated to the military bodycon style as she is. Anthony Vacerello came out of the era when Chrisophe Decarnin was first flogging £3000 jeans at Balmain, when Mark Fast had London in skinny knitted dresses, and even Christopher Kane was doing skintight ninties-style glamour. Now, it looks rather dated. When a designer is born out of a time, it is up to that designer to move with the times. If Gucci can do it, anyone can.
Vaccerello, no doubt has a strong core customer base, and it seemed the opening sections were completely dedicated to them. Customers and buyers have him boxed in – rightly or wrongly. What was encouraging was a group of dresses with sheer slips and embellishments placed atop. It may not seem like much, but the second layer added an intelligence to the clothes, and a type of modesty which is subliminal rather than sexy. Looser tees worn with reach-for-the-sky thigh high split skirts although hard and edgy felt like a much more authentic take on the now. The blown up screen printed dresses and tees were also a strong component. These pieces were proof that women don't need to dress so formally, and maybe that’s it – wearing military inspired jackets, leather mini skirts and diagonal barely-there stiletto heels can actually be very aging. The kind of girls who wear these clothes – the kind who live on cigarettes and who look like models – won’t have that problem. But it looks outdated, even on them.