Damir Doma has had a tough time of late. Financial constraints have caused him to shut down his Paris operation, close his store and relocate to Milan in the hope of rearranging his business and getting things back on track. He plans to show fewer collections and streamline his business - that ethos had no doubt informed today’s show. It was refined, considered, pure - it smacked of a designer who was going back to basics and thinking about why he really wanted to be here, taking his bow on a high fashion runway, in the first place. His show notes talked of getting back to grips with the craft and touching things by hands. ‘Reduce, refine, reconsider,’ he seemed to be saying. Colours were muted, calm, soothing, straying only from pure black and white to include khaki and dusty rose. This was all about tactility - monkish tunics came frayed, while pleats and patchworks were intricate and inviting. The usual minimalism and purity was present, but there was a new delicate serenity - as if Doma had looked around at his circumstances, made his peace, and risen up, content, prepared and at peace.
Doma’s a talented designer in the shouty world of fashion, where e-commerce and street style help those who push punchy print and colour succeed far above those whose clothes are less obvious. Here’s hoping Milan treats him well.