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Show Report: Mary Katrantzou S/S 16 Womenswear

by Lucy Norris on 20 September 2015

Lucy Norris reports on the Mary Katrantzou S/S 16 womenswear show.

Lucy Norris reports on the Mary Katrantzou S/S 16 womenswear show.

If the last few years have been about diversification, Mary Katrantzou's latest collection was all about getting back to her heartland. This exquisite collection was densely packed with embellishments and stardust. Katrantzou is naturally a maximalist, so this season’s inspiration of chaotic labyrinths and the uncharted territory of the cosmic were organised into exacting shift dresses and precise pannier skirts, fit for Tudor stargazers.

Graphic boundaries, inspired by the divine, saw crystals sectioned into medieval cathedral panes and Byzantine panelling. Rainbow salmon scales, beaded fringing and Lucite heels saw the collection dive into a river of stars.

The metallic seventies patchwork scarf tunics and dresses arrived - and Nicolas Ghesquiere’s Spring 2002 collection at Balenciaga pretty much bust through the sartorial stargate. One couldn’t help feel that Kantrantzou could have worked better to hide the reference. The black and white scuba panelling juxtaposed with the gypsy craftsmanship – but again, Katrantzou really didn’t need to go there.

The paisley and swirl prints were reminiscent of Ziggy Strardust's jumpsuit (made with Liberty fabric). Black blazers with crystal Kansai Yamamoto stripes called to mind that great moment backstage at the Grammys in 1976 - where John Lennon, hanging out with Bowie and Aretha Franklin, wore a black velvet jacket spelling out 'Elvis' in diamante. Hunky Dory proportions closed the show, playing out seventies tailoring. Sadly, Miuccia Prada pretty much got there and monopolised the sacred geometry of these linear lines a few seasons ago.

Her most original work within the collection was her most intoxicating. The beginning of the collection was where she really lifted off. It was here that she was captain of her own spaceship.

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