Show Report

Show Report: Moschino S/S 16 Menswear

by David Hellqvist on 19 June 2015

David Hellqvist reports on the Moschino S/S 16 menswear show.

David Hellqvist reports on the Moschino S/S 16 menswear show.

Having seen Jeremy Scott’s S/S 16 Moschino collection, shown in Florence as Pitti Uomo’s guest designer, I’m very confident in the Italian brand’s leather goods sales and their fragrance business. I say that because I can’t see how they could be making any money from this, their main ready-to-wear line. Actually, ‘ready-to-wear’ is an incorrect description of what we saw last night, it was more a sartorial dream (nightmare to some) that kept coming at you; look after look, each one more ludicrous than the other. I wonder how Scott differentiates between Moschino and his own line as, to me at least, they are similar in terms of aesthetic. Perhaps it’s a question of quality. Independent and creative designers famously use their house appointments to inject supreme fabrics and high tech manufacturing into their work. That might very well be the case with this summer offering, it’s difficult to tell from the standing position I had been awarded for my sins.

Naturally, no one went in expecting Scott to go all conservative on us, that’s not his style and that has to be respected. Indeed, many do appreciate his unique and colourful take on life in general and fashion in particular. I’ve been to few shows with as much cheering as a Jeremy Scott one, either his own or for Moschino: Scott’s got a dedicated following who adores his Larger Than Life and Over The Top outfits.

This time around he skilfully clashed complete polar opposite sources of inspiration. He began by paying homage to motorbike racing graphics but quickly moved us on to Renaissance brocade frocks on models with Mozart-esque hairdos. It was as absurd as it was fun. Fun being the key word here, of course. Even if you don’t subscribe to Scott’s wardrobe POV, you can’t help but smile at his attempts to liven up the world of fashion. Unfortunately, there were not a single outfit anchored in reality: Black lace tuxedos topped with oversized crowns, fancy frills and extensive use of gold surely left Scott’s stylist with a bad migraine. All kinds of bling went down the catwalk in a cacophony of colour and print. Fashion needs energy and diversity, sure, but Jeremy Scott’s Moschino is like a Red Bull overdose – and I prefer to sip a subtle Macchiato…

David Hellqvist


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