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Show Report

Show Report: Prabal Gurung S/S 16 Womenswear

by Kiki Georgiou on 14 September 2015

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Prabal Gurung S/S 16 womenswear show.

Kiki Georgiou reports on the Prabal Gurung S/S 16 womenswear show.

Last time I interviewed Prabal Gurung he told me something remarkable. While talking about his fundraising efforts following the devastating earthquake that hit Nepal, the country where he was raised, he said, ‘What is the need for me? The world doesn’t need another luxury designer. I understand very clearly my reasoning for the space I occupy in fashion. It’s not just about fashion anymore for me - I have a voice, I have a platform, not for me but for other people who need it.’ Close to one million dollars raised, two thousand shelters that will impact seven thousand people are being built and schools are reopening. ‘I could have never done that!’ he exclaimed, meaning without the fashion industry standing beside him.

And so last night, as a gesture of gratitude Gurung asked thirty monks to chant a prayer while standing against a sunset orange background. That orange, as well as hues of saffron and holi powder, were the stars of the show, which was quietly understated. Gurung has always cited his homeland as a constant inspiration and it was again referenced on the runway, along with the work of the Nepalese artist Laxman Shrestha. Yet, in some ways this was his most New York collection to date. The city is, after all, his new home. Continuing on the more minimal approach he’s been pursuing lately Gurung sent out porcelain silk organza dresses that hugged the shoulders with halter necklines alongside classic sheaths; all stopped below the knee and featured brushstroke embellishments. This was also translated in brushstroke prints on ivory silk separates that had the sportswear ease which characterises so much of what Gurung does, even his eveningwear. It is to his credit that the simpler the pieces the more impressive they are, like a saffron silk crepe dress with a deep neckline or another shift dusted with palettes. Geometric knitwear added to the feeling of lightness. Two guipure lace dresses, one in black and ivory, another in vermillion and rose, were particularly elegant and made the more heavily beaded and fringed looks that followed seem a little heavy. It was nice to see Gurung favourites Maggie Rizer, Missy Rayder and Kirsty Hume back, however, and the three silk chiffon finale gowns, in lemon, saffron and vermillion, were a reminder of what a brilliant colourist Gurung is and how masterfully he can contour and highlight a woman’s body. The world may not need another luxury designer but it’s lucky to have Gurung in its midst.

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