Roksanda Ilincic is an ‘angle-phile’. Past seasons have seen her play with the shapes and colours belonging to the modernist worlds of Lego, Russian Constructivism, and its kissing cousin, the Bauhaus. For S/S 16, the designer let the light in, and delivered geometric explorations in buttercup yellows and barely-there pastel blues. Compasses encircled and scored black etchings across prints, or appeared as wavy contours and ruffles, which both enlarged and sweetened the frame.
All dresses and skirts being floor length - the highest hemline was lower calf - Ilincic presented us with a singular vision of what next summer's style could be. But capes, canary yellow and stripes all require Roksanda's own vital statistics - willowy, lithe limbs. It would be nice if there were an invitation to a wider audience. Softer and more empathetic options were gridlocked tailored trousers in angelic tracing paper hues, and some stretchy vests with feather corsages slinking off shoulders. Slotting in more wearable pieces alongside statements stopped matters getting too cartoonish. This makes all the difference, and is the ease that this label needs. Ilincic’s work is often so artistically inspired and uncompromisingly macro - a life size canvas, so to speak. However, these are also clothes, and I'm sure more women would like the opportunity to imagine living their lives in them.