The show opened with a woman's voice narrating some lines from a house track entitled 'Do I Have A Life, Or Am I Just Living?' Versace wanted to launch a collection, which ‘goes out to women everywhere – regardless of gender, race or sexuality.’ A myriad of spotlights flickered around the venue, and a haute-military boot camp sprung into action.
The collection began with an empowered promise, but sadly resorted to a rather cliché format of what a powerful woman should/could look like. Donatella Versace’s idea of inclusivity was six black models, curvaceous Gigi Hadid (shock, horror – she has a bum) and 12 lucky girls who didn't get to be tortured by a punishing Versace heel. Many of the most seasoned pros looked uncomfortable wearing these weapons on the feet. How can women be empowered if they can’t walk? If it’s all about looking sexy, at any price to our bodies, aren’t we subletting out our power to the male gaze, and disempowering ourselves? Raquel Zimmerman was a sensational opener, due in part to the simple fact she is Raquel Zimmerman. She was kind of naked, despite wearing a jacket. Oh, but her hair - Versace girls always have the best wash and blow dry of any fashion show!
The collection was much more relevant to the now when silhouettes were relaxed. There were some strong sections made up of pyjama silhouettes and Stephen Sprouse style camouflage prints, which were patch-worked in purple and neon green colour ways. A boxy military jacket with patch-worked leopard looked great worn with neon yellow leopard pool-slides. There was also some fantastic knitwear with aggressive appliqué and macramé knits, which looked like the knitter had been inspired by the back and forth loading of a rifle. Sequin-camo backpacks were really cute, and held in the hand.
As the final exits walked the runway, the narrating voice delivered a life prophecy: ‘People will say play it safe - that's too risky. But you will take that chance.’ One wishes that Donatella would have taken more of a chance. She is rutting her head against patriarchal codes of feminine empowerment. Sexy no longer means risky, and strength does not mean military. One of the closing looks was Joan Smalls walking in a scarf tied black skirt, with matching jacket. It was a much more relaxed take on sexy. She got to wear flats - she looked so much cooler than the other girls. And she looked the strongest.
