For S/S 17, the light was let in. Last season, a sky blue was some much needed relief from the rather impenetrable aesthetic that was continuing to build here at Hermes. This season, the window was thrust wide open. Smocked waistlines in a milky-mauvy palette were followed by more ‘porcelain’ shades. Gathered and effeminate yet sporty and structured. A fuschia pink and an expressionist brick pattern in chartreuse and taupe felt fresh and spontaneous. Elsewhere the colour was grounded with the more traditional rigour of camel and black - whilst sunny pops of yellow lifted the palette. Mint green shirting arrived in gridlocked squares – a print inspired from the quilting found within the Hermes equestrian world. A series of artisan waffled skirts, woven in dark bottle green, were grown up and womanly. In line with some of the things that are happening over at the likes of Loewe and Bottega Veneta, Hermes has an opportunity here to emotionally reconnect with the world-at-large. The sleeves on coats were cut wide, and the necklines scooped low. Worn oversized, over fitted shift dresses, the layering felt somewhat eclectic and relevant to the season.
A print by the illustrator Nigel Peake was placed upon a 'phantom' skirt, where pleating added an optic trompe l'oeil effect. The Cavalcadour print, originally created by Henri d’Origny for Hermes, was deliberately twisted into 'a tangled maze of kinetic patterns.' Mirrored square heels walked the runway and architectural charms hung from wrists – whilst retail-ready teeny tiny handbags were offered as super desirable coin purses. Silver keys were also worn around the neck. Flou dresses came first in dark thick carpet woven cottons, then technical chiffon. Zips kept things sporty throughout. Overall, there was still a uniform crispness, but the arch chilliness has evaporated into sunshine. A artsy-cum-tropical soundtrack, at the end of the show, sealed the deal.