The colour blocked dresses, which opened the show, were the strongest components of the collection; the clean tank-tee shape felt sporty and desirable. Following on from a standout lurex section, within the S/S 16 collection, it was great to see the label continue to work with metallic shine this season. The Missoni customer would be missing out on a whole lotta fun otherwise. With opulent fabrics such as velvet, brocade and jacquard having such a ball at the moment, the prospect of wearing a total knitwear look sees Missoni with the opportunity to weave much more than just yarns.
In terms of silhouette, it was a long line, as per usual. A bit too much one note in places, the menswear collection for S/S 17 had felt more diverse, interesting and wearable than this. In June, Missoni showed an incredible cast of eclectic models, with looks broken up by pieces in other fabrics than knit. It felt more luxurious, evocative, and wearable. Some more emotional elements in this collection included a jumper tied around the waist and wonderful intarsia patterns, which looked like layers of eroding rock or the lines of an agate stone. The earrings, huge flat discs of swirly planetary resin, added artisan edge. Worn together, mini skirts and maxi skirts looked like a classic go-to combination.
A great pair of wide legged trousers were also a highlight, and some of the square necklines on the long dresses were markedly flattering. In contrast, the label’s 'barely there' bikinis were less so. If a model’s shoulder joints are larger than her frame, it can mean she is underweight. If her bikini top is smaller than said joints, it accentuates this further.
Fine, gauzy knits wrapped around white shirting was a smart move. Creating a defined waistline, it keyed in with the waist-tied jumper’s ability to shape the silhouette. Moody woodland prints in copper ombre, jade, mint, red and gold closed the show.
