Times are changing for Nasir Mazhar. Behind the soundbites and press releases, all designers speak with frustration at the punishing Fashion Week schedule, the unreasonable demands of retailers towards small brands (particularly those who demand ‘sale or return’ arrangements that leave the designers out of pocket and facing huge gambles when producing their products) and the compromises to creativity that can come with success. Recently, Mazhar’s been addressing this more openly. Last season, he announced major changes to his brand - he’s no longer wholesaling, and will be selling directly through his own website and a very small number or special retailers who have supported him throughout. He wants more control, more time and more pleasure in the creative process.
If this collection was anything to go by, he’s got his passion back. His recent offerings have by no means been weak, but there was a renewed energy on show for S/S 17. That way with fabrications that makes Mazhar’s work so special shone - a lace tracksuit was particularly covetable and highlighted Mazhar’s ability to create items that fit all aspects of his consumer’s lifestyle, from day to evening and special occasions. That may be why he gets frustrated by limited terms like sportswear and streetwear - it ghettoises his work. That desire to break out of boxes ran through this collection. The branding had been stripped right back, perhaps to placate those who argue his main skill is just with a logo. But really, Mazhar needn’t mind the naysayers - with work like this his fans and shoppers will be digging deep into their pockets. And community, not fawning critical cache, is what matters in Mazhar’s world.
