You know the needle has moved when Roland Mouret does a more relaxed and voluminous silhouette. The different fabric weights and textures here this season keyed into an interior design / heirloom remix style of dressing. Layering upholstery fabrics and curtain weight damasks with sporty lycras and industrial nylons is something that has been happening for a while now within fashion. Just look at velvet's current takeover at retail - and see how it is now layered with denim, nylon and silks. Mixing the technical with the historic is, of course, a DIY trope originally set out within the practice of Martin Margiela. Mouret name checked his 'masters', Yohji Yamamoto and Azzedine Alaia, in the show notes - two designers that have got 'dressmaking' down to a t. It's so refreshing to see a designer today paying respect to those that have informed his practice. It shows a real confidence and maturity.
Roland Mouret's muse this season was the interior refurbishment of his newly-opened NYC flagship store, on Madison Avenue. In the show notes, he spoke about 'the detail of the textures, heavily contradicted in the building.' His fabrics of choice were hessian mesh, embroidered neoprene and puckered stretch check. Talking of the 'uncompromising contradictions within this collection', the designer said it mirrored 'the current state of global affairs.' Satirical punchiness - a brave new position from Mouret. Deeply socio-political, this is all assemblage styling was only ever originally about: self discovery in a chaotic world. A Milky Way away from the now somewhat apathetic glamour of the galaxy dress, I like this new Mouret.
When wearing clothes, women quite rightly do still want fit. Here, Mouret mastered the balance of both femininity and style with great ease. Square peplums and cut-outs made sure the brand stayed super recognisable for returning customers. A déshabillé style of bohemian loucheness saw exposed shoulders provide a graphic framework. Pockets and strategically placed volume provided a modern, laid back style and the midi-length metallic skirts were great. Long black ribbons felt Parisian - like seventies style extended chokers from the 19th century. This collection felt incredibly in line with the season, but still totally Roland Mouret. Bravo.