The classic colour combination of cornflower blue and yellow opened the show and floral tea dresses with a flared hemline were sweet and sporty. Playing into the trend for rounded shoulders, the dresses’ voluminous short sleeves felt sci-fi/Victoriana. Short jackets added a more architectural dimension, and strengthened the silhouette. One short brown jacket was undulating yet micro and had a couture heirloom quality. Layered over a lighter pale pink dress, the contrast in fabric weights felt both eclectic and timely.
High waist skirts added to the Nicholas Ghesquière vibe. A bright and breezy broderie anglaise had a technical feel, whilst stacked platform pumps were mixed in camouflage colours of olive, brown and sand.
From my viewpoint of the collection, I could see the models walk off the runway and return to their normal everyday demeanour. Seeing them more relaxed made the clothes come alive. Allowing a model’s personality to shine through more would really help this rather serious house break some ground. Nothing too radical is needed, just a loosening up of sorts. Bottega Veneta’s casting seems older, warmer and more eclectic this season – and Ferragamo are doubtless fishing for a similar customer.
In the last few seasons, we have seen Ferragamo flit between attitudes. It would be nice to feel that there is something more soulful building here. Show notes talked more about the past heritage of the house, rather than the now – but there were no specifics given about what exactly this DNA is. Capes and caplets have been a theme from the last couple of seasons, but now it’s a voluminous cropped jacket. With Ferragamo’s history being mostly within footwear, one can appreciate the lateral links to architectural design within their clothing. However, it might be time to build in some emotion. Despite the florals, the show felt a touch chilly.