Simone Rocha goes from strength to strength. Last season was arguably her best show yet, but this collection was even more beautiful, even more carefully edited and even more moving. One gets the sense she’s rolled her sleeves up and got down and dirty with her fashion, mixing things up, delving deep into her Irish heritage and her sense of self as a woman, mother and designer. There’s something caring and warm about her designs - they speak of a maker who understands how women live. The opening looks were pure and clean; ethereal in their stark white tones. They refreshed the palette. Commercially, they’ll speak to the many brides who know doubt want nothing more than a Rocha gown. But then, the mix started. Tailored melted its way in with unexpected twists, collapsing around and caressing the dresses. Elsewhere, sensual sheer tulle was styled over crisp white shirts. One thought both of traditional menswear and traditional womenswear. Here, they were united. It’s an appropriate mash-up for Rocha, who embraces all the trappings of femininity - pink, pearls, flowers - while also speaking to a generation of modern women who like to wear the trousers (and the flats). There were other mash-ups - dresses seemed to be two floral styles jammed together. When giving her inspirations, Rocha talked of ‘hard working days.’ Well, the effort paid off for S/S 17.
Simone Rocha S/S 17 Womenswear