Show Report: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood S/S 17 Womenswear

'Everything I know I have learnt from women.' The show notes talked about Andreas Kronthaler being inspired by an Italian craftswoman called Rosita, who works in the Westwood Atelier - as well as three French women called Iris, Yasmina and Sabina who pattern cut, design swimwear and style for the label. The greatest teacher at this house is of course Westwood herself, and word on the street is that she is apparently designing again. Alas, this must have been why this collection was so darn good.  

A NASA T-shirt that said ‘Italy’ on it was brilliant - and spoke of this collection’s jaunt into Rosita’s, Iris’s, Yasmina’s and Sabina’s hometown of the Mediterranean. It was great to see this label wade in on politics too. The collection may have been inspired by the Mediterranean but Andreas was quick to point out that ‘I see England as part of Europe, so does Vivienne.’ This collection was actually an arch-political statement, which celebrated the European ties within the family that is this house. There were some references within the show notes to the goddess Europa, and Boucher’s painting in the Louvre, which depicts the Rape of Europa. The painting (which was also the image used for the invitation) is numbered 112 in the museum, which incidentally is also the emergency number in Europe. Thus, the show was entitled Rescue 112.

With such heavy hitting – and entirely necessary – commentary aside, the collection sought to positively inspire us with the beauty of fun, togetherness and friendship. Lovely floral bikinis with sixties style floral stencils on them were worn under metallic embroidered demi-skirts. Salvadore Dali's ants crawled down the chest of one model, whilst Monet's hay bales of Provence seemingly inspired literal hay bale headpieces. Straw hats stacked on top of one another were like a surrealist sombrero.

There were also shoulderless tops, marbled prints, Italian sportswear bombers and a touch of a Missoni knit. A sun bleached Visconti style aristo-jacket was rendered complete with some dandyesque Florentine frogging. A dress with a pair of drawnon boobs reminded one of the Med's love for a bit of topless sunbathing. Gigantic, surrealist dresses were swagged and held up by an above the shoulder pelmet - like the curtains at Milan's La Scala.

Lots of satin trouser suits had the inside leg cut out, so to create a new kind of deconstructed skirt. Men and women both wore everything. The show’s casting was spot on – it was diverse and beautiful. This was a really confident collection that exuded theatricality and joie de vivre. With the new Vivienne Westwood flagship store opening in Paris, this is a house that is sending a great big J’adore to one and all.