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Show Report

Show Report: Mary Katrantzou S/S 18 Womenswear

by Georgina Evans on 17 September 2017

Georgina Evans reports on the Mary Katrantzou S/S 18 womenswear show.

Georgina Evans reports on the Mary Katrantzou S/S 18 womenswear show.

By the third day of Fashion Week, one can often feel a little deflated, a little run down, a little flat. This morning, at the bright and early slot of 9am, designer Mary Katrantzou's S/S 18 offering aptly reminded us to relax, to channel our inner child and to see the play in everything.

Calling inspiration from the 'unbridled creativity of childhood' - Katrantzou's show saw games, toys and fun combine with decadent Swarovski crystal detailing and trademark prints.  

Globular shapes on dress and skirt left the models with a surprisingly flattering play-doh like silhouette, whilst neoprene chest plates complete with drawstring neckties alluded to the outdoor play and spontaneity mentioned as influences.

A primary colour palette, paint-by-numbers print and an outstanding lego covered skirt nodded to games of yesteryear. So too did the long, fringed dresses in palettes of rich green, yellow and red - designed to look like giant friendship bracelets.

Those bead lined sandals and chunky platforms with 'Mary Katrantzou' written across the sole - the latter reminded me of collectible name key-rings - were fun twists on Katrantzou’s passion for a platform. Her adapted jelly sandals, which here appeared in candy colours and latticed, were endearingly sweet and attractive. 

Despite the puffball bubble hemlines, there was lots for the everyday consumer here. Customers can cherry-pick from decadent sweet-like Swarovski earrings, polkadot denim jackets or a cross-body bag complete with an inflatable animal, while die-hard fans of Katrantzou’s mind-boggling prints should invest in the final three looks, each with such beautifully ornate decoration and voluminous shape, they could be couture.

Katrantzou’s collection took 'youth in a year' and made it a sumptuously colourful and exciting collection; florals, nylon jackets, drawstring waists, and socks-and-sandal duo’s all nodded to a young, childlike reference while feeling simultaneously decadent and mature. This was the first of Mary’s shows I had watched live and I confess, I left the space a Katrantzou convert. 

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