Is that you Sadie Williams? My, how you’ve grown. It’s so exciting to watch a designer you love grow, adapt and progress each season. I’m not alone in this sentiment - the crowd waiting outside the presentation space was practically squealing with anticipation. Once open, Williams’ presentation was ringing to the rafters with excited mutters, camera flashes and nods of approval.
Williams’ S/S 18 presentation was almost a 'best-bits' from her archives. It had Williams’ trademark sheeny metallic tones - first coined from her CSM graduate collection - her geometric shapes, her graphics, her motifs. Here they were sporty, they were modern. Her symbols were given a folkloric twist - a continuation of A/W 17’s 'folk art at the disco' perhaps - with navajo-like prints. Her geometric shapes were seen on a grey hued halter two-piece, on a khaki long-sleeved top and on a knitted sleeveless vest, the latter of which was most successful. Colours were earthier than previous collections with most items in tones of green, grey and brick orange. Her ever popular metallics shone through on a pleasing silver belted shirt and A-line skirt.
Models were given a 'mix of rustic roughness, with glimmering girlishness' as eyelids shimmered and tough braids were threaded with metal hardware and cords. There was an element of youthfulness, this outdoor adventure aesthetic had a certain Moonrise Kingdom aspect to it - see those khaki girl scout shorts, the insignia on the denim jacket, those hats with ear-covers - but this was certainly not kitsch or twee. These girls are strong hikers and explorers.
Williams knows her strengths and knows how to play to them - this collection proved that. So what will she explore next? The squealing fans and I wait patiently till next time.
