An hour outside of Milan, the Ermenegildo Zegna show was situated at one of the most breathtaking locations, Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer’s building for Gruppo Mondadori. It was a behemoth of beauty against the water out front, the milky sunset and Alexandre de Betak’s mirrored runway. The stuff of magic.
Sitting at the foot of Neimeyer’s most recognised works felt like a serendipitous moment. Neimeyer was highly influential in challenging the status quo and this collection seemed to do the same. Despite the introduction of couture ‘XXX’, the use of suiting had greatly diminished since the last season. That's not to say this wasn't tailored or sartorial. This was a refreshing athleisure takeover with materials, cut, and technique still oozing luxury appeal.
Entitled 'Weightlessness', this collection saw trim, slick looks hybridised with a sporty aesthetic. Mesh was present throughout, as too were perforated textures that were deluxe and yet seemingly moisture wicking. It was sharp, functional, breezy and cool. Visors, jackets with front-pockets, trousers that unzip into shorts, and an old-timey sporty print on bombers were all athletically inspired and strong additions. Silken textures, buttery leathers and piped pockets kept this collection at the top level of craft and elegance.
Tones of pale blue, sunflower yellow, nautical blue and green all appeared in blocks of around six, and in new sets emerging at each wave of base or music change. This lapping of Pantone colours against the mirrored floor was mesmerisingly effective.
Models clutching phones with pink Zegna cases and dangling chains showed that Alessandro Sartori is switched on to the younger demographic, while still staying true to the house's typical customer. Actually, this entire collection could be worn to some degree by just about any generation - I defy anyone not to find something they like. Sartori is a power-house - this creation of an inclusive and concurrently pithy collection proves it.
