Christian Lacroix Makes a Surprise Return to Fashion with Dries Van Noten

by SHOWstudio on 27 September 2019

Christian Lacroix made a surprise comeback to fashion via Dries Van Noten's S/S 20 show on Wednesday.

Christian Lacroix made a surprise comeback to fashion via Dries Van Noten's S/S 20 show on Wednesday.

Eddy and Patsy will have an absolutely fabulous field day to know Christian Lacroix is back!

The French designer made a surprise comeback to fashion via Dries Van Noten's S/S 20 show on Wednesday. The celebrated French designer who rose to recognition for his “pouf” skirts and exuberant colour palette was the designer du moment of the eighties and nineties. Lacroix came to embody French haute couture at its most splendid and extravagant, until losses forced him to close his house in 2009.

Dries van Noten meanwhile is a Paris Fashion Week fixture, having shown in the French capital since 1993. Once called 'one of fashion's most cerebral designers' by the New York Times, van Noten is one of the influential group known as the Antwerp Six, whose work stood in opposition to that fantasy approach. van Noten's oeuvre - while hardly minimal - leans less towards extravagance than to exoticism, having drawn on Indian textile traditions including ikat and embroidery.

A testament to Christian Lacroix's power in the 80s: his haute couture jacket with a beaded cross was featured on Anna Wintour's first cover for US Vogue in November 1988, photographed by Peter Lindbergh and styled by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele.

As Paris Fashion Week attendees took their seats at Paris' Opéra Bastille, the five-month-long collaboration was hinted at by the single red roses that were placed on each seat at the show, bearing the label DVN*XCLX. Once the show started, the Belgian designer's easy, contemporary silhouettes took on Lacroix's flamboyance, through feathers, ruffles, gigot sleeves and a bold fuchsia and orange palette. The collaboration, which is understood to be a one-off for this season, was a celebration of 'mutual admiration', van Noten’s spokesman said. This was evident as the two creatives appeared for a joint bow at the end of the show next to a model wearing a luscious cream plumage.

Speaking to British fashion journalist Susannah Frankel in September 2019, van Noten said, 'The plot was hatched naturally and at the very start of the season, I found myself needing exuberance, opulence, another volume and fun! I was constantly drawn to the eighties and nineties, to a love of dressing up, to couture, to beauty, to audacity - to joy. I quickly realised that all roads seemed to lead to the work and world of Mr. Christian Lacroix. So, after little deliberation, I thought, "Why not just phone him, why not phone Christian and ask if he would be up for the challenge and enjoy working with me on a collection?" I was so happy when he immediately said yes.'

In a moment where collaborations are almost two-a-penny in fashion and streetwear - we'll call it the Vêtements effect - this 'mutual admiration' of Lacroix and van Noten is very much appreciated.

Dries Van Noten, S/S 20.
Dries Van Noten, S/S 20.
Dries Van Noten, S/S 20.

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