Daniel Fletcher has given us a glimpse of his debut Autumn/Winter 2020 menswear collection for Fiorucci, which combines New York’s disco past, London’s club scene and unadulterated hedonism. Fiorucci having been immortalised in disco classics and video art pieces, a look back at the brand's archive was a natural move for Fletcher: it was in archival pieces that Fiorucci’s heavy disco past emerged, through original sketches and the personal artefacts of the brand's founder, Elio Fiorucci himself.
Each piece feels playful; the baby blue satin 'Bang' shirt is fun, edged with sex appeal - it could easily be worn to a wild night out in Studio 54. The core of the collection remains denim and cotton, Fiorucci being known for its cupid tees and jeans, but satin has also become a reoccurring motif, appearing alongside baby blue vinyl suits and brightly knitted vests. In a statement, Fletcher said that, 'Fiorucci is a party brand and I wanted to capture that magic,' and capture it he certainly has.
Included in the collection for the first time is tailoring via the flared wool trousers, the heavy mustard tuxedo jacket and the checked overcoat. Fletcher is issuing in a new era for Fiorucci that feels fresh while retaining the historical link to sex, fun and disco.
Yet who is Daniel Fletcher? The designer started his eponymous label Daniel W Fletcher in 2015 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Throughout his career he has worked for goliaths JW Anderson, Burberry, Louis Vuitton and Lanvin. Fletcher's past collections ooze sex appeal, and he's brought that sizzling energy to Fiorucci's high-shine cheeky brand aesthetic.