Designer Spencer Phipps Bares All For Sustainability

Spencer Phipps made waves in the Paris menswear scene when he launched his namesake label in 2018. The American designer’s vision of contemporary masculinity was heavily defined by his San Francisco upbringing, admiration for the great outdoors, and tongue-in-cheek wit. For his S/S 23 collection, Phipps explored masculine archetypes by reimagining hyper-masculine tropes like camouflage prints and lumberjack plaids as elevated wardrobe staples.

Beyond the rugged appeal of his collections, what captured industry interest in the brand (and led to being a finalist for the 2019 LVMH Prize) is the designer's passion for sustainability. Conscious of the brand's carbon footprint, Phipps is committed to local, small-scale production and supports non-profits such as the USDA Forest Service and Oceanic Global. It’s the brand's commitment to sustainable practices that made him the perfect person to star in filmmaker Guillermo de Zamacona’s short film, The Survivalist. ‘He seemed like the perfect fit to play the character, not only because of the way he looks but also because of his philosophy of life and business’, Zamacona tells me over email.

The film, which was shot over the course of two days in Yosemite National Park, sees Phipps traverse the wilderness alone with nothing more than a bag of essentials. Showcasing the scenic beauty of California's sky-high Sequoia trees and the Sierra Nevada mountains, Zamacona was inspired by the vast landscape's sublime qualities. Which is made even more imposing when witnessing a solitary and silent Phipps navigate through valleys, forests, and rivers. More than just a celebration of the awe-inspiring natural world, Zamacona hopes the film will invite viewers to question man's place within nature.

'In the end it was only him and I going around Yosemite for two days, waking up at 4:30 each day and driving for an hour from base camp, filming all day until sundown', he explains. The filmmaker first met Phipps in 2016 when the designer was working for Dries Van Noten with the two finding common ground on their views on sustainability. The choice of following Phipps in the wild with only the bare essentials was an easy one. 'I wanted to do something that felt raw, contemplative and that was moving, that didn't come across as preachy but would hopefully give people some time and space to reflect. And Yosemite just felt like such a special place to tell the story'.

While the film doesn't feature Phipps' designs, the entire wardrobe including vintage Comme des Garçons and Vivienne Westwood, was sourced with the help of Fashion Sustainability Consultant Santa Bevacqua. ‘Working with Santa Bevacqua was an eye opening experience. I had never worked on a shoot (film or stills) where 100% of the clothes used were vintage/second hand and it was a fascinating going to thrift stores in Los Angeles with her, and to be able to absorb all her knowledge in the subject.’ As fashion continues to be among the top polluting industries in the world, here's hoping more creatives follow suit in taking action against climate change.