Fabulosity and Frivolity: What To Look Forward to NYFW A/W 23

New York City has been the home to some of the most influential intellects in modern history. From writers like Truman Capote and Fran Lebowitz to artists like Basquiat, Haring and Warhol. But most importantly, it’s the home of The Real Housewives of New York City. Equal parts entertainment and anthropology, the reality program invites audiences to peer into the wildly fabulous escapades of camp icons like Countess Luann de Lesseps and Sonja Morgan. Literally, the textbook definition of ‘no thoughts, just vibes’, the program takes you on a wild and glamorous ride with many laughs to be had along the way. And honestly, with the horrors of the news cycle lately, it’s silly shenanigans and fabulous frivolity that I crave from the New York Fashion Week A/W 23 womenswear shows.

Once a hotbed for the campy and eclectic energy of underground icons like Betsey Johnson and Stephen Sprouse, as of late NYFW has taken a more thoughtful, dare I say, intellectual slant. The city’s latest wave of emerging talents like Collina Strada and Luar have utilised their brands as a means of sharing deeply personal narratives to drive important conversations around community, diversity, and identity. This season also marks the runway return of Thom Browne, whose exceptional craftsmanship and storytelling abilities have long rivalled the great ateliers of Paris, with a show that is sure to be a highlight of the season. The truth is, in one way or another these brands will deepen our understanding of how fashion can tackle important societal themes. But I’ve had it with thinking. To quote Kristen Johnston’s character in Sex and the City before her perilous drunken stumble out of a Manhattan apartment, ‘whatever happened to fun’? Well, pour yourself a glass of Pinot Grigio and throw on your finest Jovani number because here’s your guide to the fun fashions that are sure to keep you entertained all week long.

RODARTE

Kicking off the womenswear shows on Friday will be Rodarte, who are also making their runway return to The Big Apple. Established by sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the duo spent the last year in their hometown of Los Angeles, where they have presented collections on and off since their A/W 19 collection. For S/S 23, the pair looked to the psychedelic rock stars of the 70s and the sparkling showgirls of Las Vegas, presenting a sequin-heavy spectacle that would put anyone in the mood to party. A favourite for certified cool girls like Alexa Demie, Charli XCX and Kirsten Dunst (all of whom have starred in the brand’s lookbooks), here's hoping the Mulleavy sisters bring some much-needed Hollywood magic to NYC.

AREA

A recurring theme in this round-up is going to be an overabundance of sparkle and shine, and no brand does it better than Area. The design studio founded by Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk hasn’t been shy with the Bedazzler covering every garment possible in high-shine Swarovski crystals. While it’s party-girl get-ups that are the brand’s bread and butter, the duo have also dabbled in the world of couture, showing off their unbridled creativity with geometric silhouettes for A/W 22. Of course, I can’t ignore one of the most iconic fashion moments in reality TV history when Selling Sunset star (and fashion week fixture) Christine Quinn went viral after carrying Area’s crystal-encrusted folding chair ‘purse’. In a word, stupid, but in the best ways possible.

LAQUAN SMITH

When it comes to downtown party-girl attire, no one in New York comes close to LaQuan Smith. The designer’s affinity for slinky silhouettes and sequins has made him a favourite among the glamorous Hollywood crowd. From industry elites like Beyonce and Madonna to reality TV stars Christine Quinn and Khloe Kardashian, everybody who’s anybody is sure to be papped wearing one of the brand’s body-hugging designs. The man himself is no stranger to the fun you can have with fashion, with his personal style embodying 70s sleaze in OTT fur boleros and disco-ready sequined suits that would make the likes of Tom Ford and Michael Kors proud. Plus, his affinity for fun has paid off with him being a runner-up for Womenswear Designer of the Year at the 2022 CFDA Fashion Awards.

CHRISTIAN COWAN

The go-to designer for today’s biggest names in pop music, Christian Cowan has captivated our generation’s defining voices from Lady Gaga to Cardi B with his over-the-top extravagance. Never one to dial it back, Cowan’s more-is-more designs have been fodder for music videos and live performances. Most recently he dressed Grammy-winner Sam Smith in a satin tuxedo dress for their 'I’m Not Here To Make Friends' music video. A pop culture aficionado, the designer has partnered up with The Powerpuff Girls, American Dad, Lil Nas X, and Crocs to create some of the most outlandish and cartoonish capsule collections.

THE BLONDS

If Cowan is for today’s pop-girls, then it’s The Blonds that are for pop legends. The brand co-founded by brother-sister duo Phillipe Blond and creative director David Blond, has long been a favourite of Janet Jackson who wore custom stage looks for her performance at Essence Fest last year. Mary J Blige also shined in a disco-ball gown from the brand’s S/S 23 show at The Grammy’s last week. Of course, that isn’t to say they’re averse to contemporary talents. Case in point: American-rapper Saucy Santana, closed out the most recent show with a performance of his viral hit 'Material Girl'. We can only guess what kind of stunts the duo have planned when they present their A/W 23 collection on Wednesday.